Glossary of Climbing Terms
Climbing Terms You May Encounter at the ARC
Arete
A narrow ridge, or corner, of rock or snow. Derived from the french word for "stop".
Anchor
The point on the climbing wall (or rock, mountain, etc.) that the climbing system (usually the rope) is attached to in order to protect the climber during a fall.
ATC – Air Traffic Controller
A popular belay device made by Black Diamond; often used as a generic name for any tube-style belay device.
Autobelay
(a.k.a. Redpoint Descender) A safety device used to prevent a climbers fall by gently lowering to the ground.
Belay
Literally means “to hold”; it refers to the system of devices (anchor, rope, belay device etc.) that hold a climber to protect them during a fall, or the act of controlling the system. The person managing the belay is called the “belayer”.
Belay Device
An object that applies friction to the climbing rope that allows the belayer to hold a climber’s weight, stop a fall, or lower them slowly to the ground.
Bolt
A permanent anchor in the rock installed individually as a protection device, or with other bolts or protection devices as an anchor. The bolt is a metal shaft 3/8 inch or 5/16 inch in diameter (common sizes), driven into a hole drilled by the climber, and equipped with a hanger to attach a carabiner.
Bouldering
A style of climbing where the climber makes a few difficult or gymnastic moves close to the ground and then drops back down without using a rope or other climbing gear.
Bouldering Pad
A mat three to four inches thick, and roughly four feet square placed on the ground under a boulderer to cushion a fall. Usually made of layers of foam of various densities and covered with heavy, durable nylon and equipped with straps so that it can be folded in half and carried from place to place on the climber’s back. Also known as a crash pad.
Carabiner
(a.k.a. 'biner) A metal loop or ring with a spring loaded gate that is used to attach the rope to an anchor or other climbing gear. Comes in a variety of shapes including ovals, D’s, or pears; some allow the gate to be locked closed.
Crux
The hardest move or section of a climb.
Dyno
A climbing move that involves a jump or lunge to a hold that out of reach.
Dynamic Rope
A type of rope that stretches to help absorb the energy of a climber’s fall which protects the climber and reduces the force on climbing gear.
Edging
A type of climbing move where the climber must stand on small edges for upward progress.
Flagging
A climbing move where the climber stretches a foot out to the side to help balance on their other foot.
Gri-Gri
A belay device made by Petzl that locks and holds a fall automatically. ARC staff usually use these.
Jug
A large handhold that is easy to grab (like holding onto the rim of a bucket or jug).
Lead Climbing
A style of climbing where the climber carries the rope with them from the ground up and attaches it to pieces of protection spaced out along the climb. If the climber falls they will fall twice the distance between them and their last piece of protection (called a lead fall). A dynamic rope must be used to prevent injury to the climber.
Mantel
A climbing move where the climber pushes down on a hold with their hand.
Protection
(a.k.a. Pro) Pieces of climbing gear that are placed in the rock or wall. The rope is attached to them with a quickdraw to hold a climber during a fall. These may be permanent or “fixed” pieces (such as bolts) or removable wedges or camming devices. Several pieces are usually combined to form an anchor, although pieces of protection are sometimes referred to as anchors.
Quickdraw
(a.k.a. 'draw) Two carabiners that are attached together with a short loop of nylon (or some other type of webbing) called a dogbone. During a lead climb one of the carabiners is clipped to a piece of protection and the rope is clipped into the other.
Rappelling
Descending a fixed rope using a belay device. Not to be confused with lowering, when the climber is lowered by the belayer (and the rope slides through the anchor).
Sloper
A large climbing hold that has a smooth rounded or sloping surface that is difficult to grip.
Smearing
A climbing move where the foot is pushed against the wall for friction where there isn’t a distinct foothold.
Sport Climbing
A type of climbing that uses only fixed protection.
Static Rope
A rope that has little or no stretch. Using static ropes for climbing can lead to injury or damage to gear. They are used for rappelling, hauling gear, or building anchors.
Top Roping
A style of climbing where the rope is attached through an anchor at the top of the climbing route so that the climber does not risk a long fall.
Traditional Climbing
(a.k.a. trad) A style of climbing where removable protection is used.